Understanding the Challenges of Curly Hair: Dryness, Frizz, and Breakage

Often perceived as elegant and unique, curly hair presents challenges related to its specific structure. By addressing issues such as dryness, frizz, and breakage, we can better understand how to adapt hair care routines to meet the needs of this hair type. Proper classification of the different types of curly hair allows for tailored care for each texture and effectively treats the most sensitive areas, especially the ends.

1 - Dryness: A structure prone to dehydration

Curly hair has a spiral or wavy shape, which extends its surface compared to straight hair, increasing water evaporation. Due to the uneven distribution of sebum, the hair fiber is exposed, especially along the lengths. The cuticle (interlocked keratin scales) is often slightly raised, increasing permeability to air and particles.

Causes of hair dryness

Hair porosity: Hair with highly open cuticles retains water poorly, making it dry and difficult to hydrate long-term; this is known as high-porosity hair. Conversely, low porosity prevents water from penetrating deeply.

It is possible to perform a test to identify hair porosity by submerging a hair strand in water. If it sinks quickly, the porosity is high, whereas if it floats, it is low.

Hydration breaking point: High porosity leads to the accumulation of hydrophilic molecules in the hair fiber, causing an effect called "hydra fatigue," where the cuticle weakens, and the hair loses vitality.

What are the suitable solutions?

Natural products without harsh chemicals such as sulfates, silicones, etc., and containing moisturizing agents like aloe vera and glycerin, which, when combined with occlusive agents like natural oils or butters, attract moisture while preventing transepidermal water loss.

Use a product with an adapted pH; it is recommended to use products with an acidic pH (4.5 to 5.5) to tighten the scales and optimize water retention.

2 - Frizz: The hygroscopic effect of the environment

Curly hair is particularly sensitive to changes in humidity. The hydration-humidity imbalance occurs when the hair fiber, insufficiently sealed, absorbs ambient moisture uncontrollably. This alters the cohesion of keratin chains, distorting the shape of curls.

Main causes of frizz

High porosity and unstable hygroscopic exchange: High-porosity hair has poorly aligned or open cuticle scales, allowing moisture to easily penetrate the hair fiber. By absorbing ambient humidity, the fiber swells, altering the cohesion of keratin chains and creating frizz.

❗High-porosity hair easily absorbs water and humidity but, as mentioned earlier, does not retain moisture well.

Chemical treatments: Bleaching, straightening, and the use of chemical treatments break the disulfide bonds (agents responsible for the strength and structure of the hair).

Mechanical stress: Aggressive brushing or detangling weakens the cuticle, creating breaches where moisture can infiltrate.

What are the solutions to combat frizz?

Using healthy products formulated with vegetable oils, these oils act as hydrophobic film-forming agents, meaning they create a barrier against moisture.

The "plopping" method: This method involves wrapping the hair in a microfiber t-shirt after washing to enhance definition without disrupting the curl structure.

3- Breakage: Fiber fragility and aggressive brushing

The fragility of curly hair is due to its structural asymmetry. Each point of inflection (curl) represents an area of increased tension, where the fiber is more vulnerable. Additionally, textured hair is often drier, with an uneven distribution of proteins within the hair.

Main causes of curly hair breakage

Reduced elasticity: As we have seen, textured hair lacks healthy hydration and proteins. However, we have also seen that their structures favor the absorption of a large amount of water, but an "over-hydrated" hair becomes soft and brittle; similarly, uneven protein distribution creates rigid areas where the hair easily breaks.

Aggressive brushing and chemical treatments: Chemical coloring and straightening alter disulfide bonds, weakening the hair fiber. Coupled with aggressive brushing or brushing dry hair, this leads to micro-abrasions of the cuticle, resulting in premature hair breakage.

What are the adapted solutions for curly hair?

Using products formulated with keratin or silk proteins to restore fiber cohesion. Daily use of these products or in a mask treatment lasting 4 to 6 weeks is recommended.

Detangle hair with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to limit pulling forces, and work on damp hair with a conditioner.

What products and routines to address the problems of textured hair?

To resolve the issues related to curly, wavy, or frizzy hair, it is essential to rely on a natural hair care routine that respects all types of curls. This is why Rodolphe&Co created the product line Coeurl.

A concise product range that covers the entirety of a hair care routine for all types of curls. It includes a shampoo, a mask, a balm, a gel, and a mist with 100% vegan formulas, free from sulfates, PEGs, and gluten. Coeurl offers three distinct routines to meet the needs of your clients with textured hair.

Wavy hair routine

1 - The texture shampoo to cleanse without weighing down the hair and respect the curls. Two applications are recommended to remove product residues and dirt.

2 - The Hydra-coeurl potion to use between shampoos to facilitate styling, reform the "wavy" effect while refreshing the hair.

3 - The frizz gel to define and lightly fix wavy and curly hair. It doesn't grease, providing a lot of hydration.

Curly hair routine

1 - The texture shampoo to cleanse without weighing down and respect the curls. Two applications are recommended to remove product residues and dirt.

2 - The coeurl mask, after each shampoo, to deeply nourish, repair the hair fiber, and strengthen the curls. Leave it on for 5 to 10 minutes.

3 - The coeurl balm to nourish the hair fiber, facilitate detangling, and reduce frizz. It starts to define the curls.

4 - The frizz gel to define and lightly fix curly hair.

Our tip: You can mix the gel and balm in your hand and apply them together.

5 - The Hydra-coeurl potion to use between shampoos to facilitate styling, reform the "wavy" effect while hydrating and defining. Use without moderation anytime during the day.

Frizzy hair routine

1 - The coeurl mask before shampooing to deeply nourish the hair and prepare it for the texture shampoo. It plays a major role in enhancing frizzy hair.

2 - The texture shampoo to cleanse without weighing down and respect frizzy hair. One application is recommended to gently cleanse the hair.

3 - The coeurl balm to nourish the hair fiber, facilitate detangling, and reduce frizz. It starts to define curls and shapes frizzy hair. Apply generously on lengths and roots, ideally on damp hair.

4 - The Hydra-coeurl potion to use as step 4 between shampoos to facilitate styling, reform curls while hydrating and defining. Use without moderation.

A healthy curly hair combines curl definition, elasticity, and hydration retention. Incorporating advanced care (such as using optimized pH) based on the hair's needs helps maintain this healthy balance.